Return to Florence - Winter Wonderland Tour 2014

We left a cold and snowy Washington on February 18 to return to Florence for the spring.  Three days later we were on the train headed north to Switzerland. Not enough snow in DC? Well, last fall we had decided to take advantage of having our house here and instead of heading someplace warm and sunny we would turn northwards to see a real Swiss winter complete with hot spiced wine and cheese fondue! (Of course, we never dreamed that Washington would experience the coldest and snowiest winter in decades.)

On the way up to Zermatt via cog railway

We arrived in Florence, unpacked and repacked for snow, visited with friends, and then two days later took the 9 am train from Florence to Zermatt (via Milan and Wisp) for a four-day stay. After that we took the train from Zermatt to Gstaad (via Wisp, Speiz, and Zweisimmen) for another four days. What an adventure, and how different to experience winter in the Swiss mountains!

Map on train table

A cog railway brings travelers from Wisp to Zermatt (no cars allowed in Zermatt!) up to a base of 5,300 feet. The climb slowly reveals small villages, steep mountains, and increasing snow coverage.

Au Coeur des Alpes - lounge and breakfast area

Our hotel, Au Coeur des Alpes, sent an electric van to retrieve us from the train station and take us to our jewel of a hotel at the end of the valley. To enter the hotel we had to go into a cave and take an elevator up through the mountainside to arrive in the lobby set atop a rock formation above the village. 

Our beautiful room had an enormous skylight and terrace (covered in snow) from which we could to view the mountains and the river running through town. We even had our own private in-room sauna!

Enjoying cheese fondu

 

After exploring town that afternoon, we had our gluwein and later a cheese fondue. As our arteries began to clog up, we strolled back to the inn in the falling snow—totally beautiful and romantic. 

 

Romantic Zermatt by night

 

After breakfast the next morning we rented walking/ski poles to help us manage the hiking trails down the mountains. Each morning brought clear blue skies, and so each day we journeyed up one of the three major peaks and ski areas, the highest of which is 12,700 feet.  

Zermatt and the Matterhorn are gorgeous, actually there are no words to adequately describe the majesty of these mountains and so our pictures will have to tell the story.

Us and the Matterhorn!

Each day we followed one of the hiking trails down a certain distance. Great that it was possible to not only ride the various trains, bubbles, and cable cars up but to be able to use a combination to get down again. Fueled by hearty Swiss food, rosti and sausage, we were game for any trail! 

Our sausage and rosti lunch!

Day one we ascended via cog railway to the Gornergrat area, day two to the Rothorn area, and day three to the Matterhorn glacier. On this last ascent, the air was so thin at that altitude that, after a short look around (the views were spectacular), we took a cable car back down to Trockner Steg at around 10,000 feet.

One hitch on day two--halfway down the mountain we discovered that the walking trail was closed, and Lee had to hop the chair lift line to get us a seat so we could go up in order to go up(!), to get the cogwheel railroad to take us back down—always an adventure.

Day 1:  The Gornergrat Area (10,138 feet)

The cog railway to the top

Wish we were skiing down!

Day 2:  The Rothorn Area (10,158 feet)

A selfie with the Matterhorn

Hot chocolate before descent

Day 3:  The Matterhorn Glacier (12,746 feet)

Riding to the top of the world

After a few days amodst Zermatt’s dramatic scenery, we headed for the gentler but equally lovely hills of Gstaad, a base at 3,500 feet. Le Grand Chalet, our inn, was literally that—a warm and beautiful chalet that sat on a hill overlooking the valley town of Gstaad and the surrounding mountains.

 

Gstaad as seen from our room

The night of our arrival, a snow storm also arrived. We had dinner at the hotel watching the valley being blanketed in a fresh coat of gorgeous snow.

The next morning we hiked down the hill to town to explore the village and find out how to get around to the various ski locations. Gstaad is charming, but in contrast to Zermatt (which is aimed at serious skiers), it also welcomes high-end shoppers, and those who want to "see and be seen". 

In Gstaad even the dogs ride in style!

Preparing for the day!

In the small world category—while waiting for a ski bus we began talking to two men, one of whom lived in Washington and went to dental school with our family dentist! That night we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at the Michelin one-star restaurant, the Chesery - a delayed birthday dinner for Cathy.

 

The Chesery in the snow

The following day our plan was to ride the cable car to the top of the Col du Pillon Glacier 3000, and so we took the bus up into the mountains to get to the cable car. Unfortunately, when we got there the lift was closed because of storms at the top. 

On the trail!

Our thought had been to just head back to Gstaad, but the very kind bus driver suggested getting off in the next town, Les Diablerets, taking the old-fashioned bubble left to the Isenau ski area and taking a two-hour hike down a winter trail by way of a lake to the return bus stop. We did just that, after enjoying our juicy hamburger lunch at the top which fueled our long and beautiful walk down. Always nice to eat a lot and then feel virtuous working it off!

Our last day in Gstaad was dedicated to more walking trails and then a wonderful hot chocolate enjoyed  at the world-famous Gstaad Palace Hotel which is celebrating its 100^th anniversary. 

Hot chocolate at the Gstaad Palace

Over the years the hotel has hosted many celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Louis Armstrong, and Marc Chagall and so we decided we should join the rich and famous at least for an hour or so. And so up we walked, and basked in the beautiful lobby bar sipping excellent hot chocolate. We then hiked back to our own beautiful chalet to enjoy its coziness and watch the evening snowfall.

Descent to Montreux and Lake Geneva

After breakfast on our final morning we packed and caught the train back to Florence. From Gstaad to Montreux the mountains slowly gave way to rather high hills surrounding Lake Geneva, a lovely descent. From there a train to Milan and another back to Florence. And so we returned home from our Winter Wonderland journey looking forward to the promise of spring here.